Modhera Surya Mandir, the Spectacular Sun Temple in Gujarat

Modhera Sun Temple – A Road Trip from Ahmedabad

Right through my school days, the mere mention of Surya Mandir or Sun Temple always conjured up images of  Konark Temple in Odisha. I now think it was because Konark Temple is big and spread over a large area and the temple itself shaped like a chariot, which in itself is unique. It was only later in life I came to know about Modhera Surya Mandir, a Sun Temple in Gujarat and a few others. After seeing Modhera Temple’s images on the internet, we made a mental note to drive to this place whenever we went to Ahmedabad. 

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Republished with updated content 2-Nov-2023

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True to that promise we made to ourselves, when we got an opportunity to visit Ahmedabad, during the kite festival, we included a road trip to explore Modhera Sun Temple amongst other places.

Worshipping the Sun God or Surya Dev

From time immemorial, even during the Vedic period, Sun and Fire were being worshipped as a symbol of energy and life. There are quite a few scriptures that mention the importance of praying to the Sun. So much so, the books talk of 12 different manifestations of Sun called the Adityas and hence many temples were also dedicated to the Sun God or Surya Dev to faciliate worship by the devotees.

Surya Namaskar in Yoga or the Sun Salutation is an elaborate sequence of hand, legs and body movements which are now quite popular when doing Yoga. There are 12 asanas (yoga poses) that complete one cycle of Surya Namaskar. It is said that with each cycle one is expected to chant a mantra dedicated to one of Adityas. With the second cycle, second Aditya, and so on.

Modhera Sun Temple (Modhera Surya Mandir)

Modhera Surya Mandir is located on the banks of the Pushpavati river in Mehsana district of Gujarat at a distance of about 100 KM from Ahmedabad. It is a unesco world heritage centre.

So what to do in modhera?

It was already noon when we started from Ahmedabad. Generally speaking, we always start early on any road trip, but this day was different . It was the day of Uttarayan and every terrace was crowded with people flying kites. We became kids with our hosts’ kids and were screaming and shouting “Kai Po Che” whenever another’s kite was “cut”. 

The green farms on both sides were so soothing and made driving all the more enjoyable, so much so that, we stopped for some time and did some camera work near a mustard field full of yellow flowers. 

The drive did not last long, just about two and half hours, which was good speed, considering the traffic and roads conditions. 

Architectural Layout of Modhera Surya Mandir

The Modhera Sun Temple complex can be divided into three parts. The whole temple lies on East-West axis, almost on the Tropic of Cancer. The Sanctum Sanctorum was designed in such a way that twice every year, on equinox days, the Deity of Sun (not there now) received the first rays of the morning sun.

Surya kund or Ramakund, the Step well: A marvel in stone and water

The holy tank or the Kund, is called Ramakund or Suryakund. The steps leading to the water is the first thing that attracts you. There are steps all around and one can climb down from any side. The unique feature is the steps do not going straight down to the water but small flights of steps are positioned sideways, except the last few steps. I think this must be a safety feature. If one slips he falls only a few feet. Good thinking!

The steps are interspersed with several shrines dedicated to various gods, 108 in all. We were in awe to see such a beautiful reservoir in such a good condition. It is definitely worth spending some time getting down and going around the tank.

Sabha mandapam

Unveiling the Sabhamandap: A set of steep steps from the holy tank, leads up to a platform on which the second structure, the Sabhamandapam or Rangamandapam, is located. Mandapam in Sanskrit means a pavilion where people may congregate and is standard feature in all Hindu temples. Sabha means a meeting or a conclave and Ranga here may mean entertainment. It was, and still is, a common practice to have dances and music in the temple premises. In fact, a dance festival is organized by Gujarat Tourism in the month of January every year, called the Modhera Dance Festival . 

The intricately sculpted pillars and walls, with various dancers, musicians and other characters from the religious books, makes one wonder, how did the artisans achieve this level of accuracy! The hall features 52 intricately carved pillars, each telling a story of devotion and artistry. The meticulously detailed sculptures, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, invite you to unravel the secrets of the past while you bask in the gentle play of sunlight filtering through the intricately designed ceiling.

The number 52 holds symbolic significance in the Modhera Sun Temple. It is often associated with the 52 weeks in a year, representing the cyclical nature of time and the solar calendar. Each pillar may correspond to a specific week, aligning with the temple’s dedication to the sun god. It emphasizes the connection between the temple’s design and the solar calendar, reflecting the importance of time and cosmic order in Hindu cosmology.

Even the domed ceiling is so beautiful, with concentric circles of varying designs. 

Gudhamandapam (Guda mandapam)

The last structure is the most important and is actually the temple, Gudhamandapam (Guda Mandapa) which includes a hall for the devotees and the main sanctum sanctorum called Garbhagraham, for the idol of the deity, in this case, the Sun God, Surya. 

The Sun temple faces east because the Sun rises in the east. This is in departure from the normal direction of almost all other temples, which faces west. 

Like in the dance pavilion, there are carvings, sculptures from religious books all around. It is best to take a torch inside as it may be too dark inside, especially if you want to see the dome from inside. Flashing a torch at the dome, you will also find a colony of bats! 

Outside walls are also covered with intricate carvings of gods and godesses.You will also find erotic carvings, much like Khajuraho, as part of its architectural ornamentation. In those days, erotic art was not a taboo at all. These sensuous sculptures, depicting amorous scenes and fertility symbols, reflect the celebration of life and sensuality in Hindu culture.

Modhera Sun Temple Illumination

During the Modhera Dance Festival, the temple is illuminated by colorful lights forming a backdrop to the Indian classical dances being performed. To increase tourism to this place, as the sun sets, the Kund comes alive with a mesmerizing play of light and shadow, evoking an otherworldly ambiance.

It is truly spectacular and must be witnessed personally.

All in all, for it was a day well spent at this magnificent Sun Temple complex. 

History of Modhera Surya Mandir, the Sun Temple

Nestled in the heart of the vibrant Indian state of Gujarat, the Modhera Sun Temple stands as a testament to architectural brilliance and spiritual devotion. The sun temple is an ancient marvel, dating back to the 11th century, is a beacon of light and spirituality, dedicated to the worship of the Sun God, Surya. With its captivating history and intricate craftsmanship, the Modhera Sun Temple is a treasure trove of India’s rich cultural heritage.

The history of the Modhera Sun Temple is a tale of artistic excellence and religious fervor. It was built in 1026-27 AD during the reign of King Bhimdev I of the Solanki dynasty, a time when India was flourishing with artistic and architectural accomplishments. The temple was designed to align perfectly with the rising sun during the equinoxes, highlighting the significance of solar worship in Hinduism. The complex features a stunning stepped tank, known as the Surya Kund, with 108 miniature shrines, intricately carved pillars, and an exquisitely crafted sanctum sanctorum dedicated to the Sun God.

Modhera or Modherapura also known as Mundera is said to have been the original settlement of Modha Brahmans.

We were surprised to learn that Modhera Surya Mandir was older than Konark by over 2 centuries!

Stories relating to Ramayana and Lord Rama:

As per Hindu Scriptures, there was always a temple dedicated to Sun God here. It is said, as per Skanda-Purana, the King Rama, while returning after killing Ravana, wanted to wash his sins of killing a Brahman (brahma-hatya). He is said to have performed a yagna to cleanse his sins. 

Sage Vasishta helped him perform this yagna. Another local legend says that the priest helping him perform the yagna belonged to the community Modh. Hence the name Modhera. There are, of course, many stories each as interesting as the other. 

Another story is that the modha Brahmans received Modhera as a krsnarpana (divine gift) during the sacred union of Rama and Sita.

The legacy continues as he established the village of Sitapura nearby, approximately 8 km from Becharagi. The village Modherah, mentioned in ancient texts, eventually evolved into the renowned Modhera.

Intricately carved, the Modhera Sun Temple stands as a symbol of India’s rich architectural heritage and deep-rooted spirituality. Its history is a testament to the grandeur of the Solanki dynasty and the enduring allure of the Sun God’s worship. As you explore this ancient marvel, be prepared to embark on a captivating journey through time, basking in the glorious radiance of the Modhera Sun Temple, where history, spirituality, and artistry converge in a stunning symphony.

Useful Information about Modhera Surya Mandir

Location

Latitude,Longitude: 23.5825005,72.1273084
Enter these coordinates on any map application and it will take your there.

How to reach Modhera Surya Mandir, Modhera Sun Temple

The nearest Airport is Ahmedabad, which is around 100 KM away. 

 The nearest Railhead is Mehsana about 30 KM away. 

 There are regular buses from Mehsana and Ahmedabad.

 It takes about 2.5 hours to drive to Modhera Sun Temple from Ahmedabad.

Visiting Hours : 07.00 AM to 6.00 PM. From 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM one can enter the premises to see the illumination but not the temple.

Entry Ticket Price : INR 25 for Indian, SAARC and BIMSTEC citizens. For other foreigners, it is INR 300. Free entry for children below 15 years of age.

Where to stay?

Best place to stay would be Ahmedabad, from there Modhera village is just a day trip.

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Package tours!

While you can visit Modhera Temple on your own, in case you want to book a package tour then click below for Patan And Modhera Day Trip From Ahmedabad through Klook Tours!

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Frequently Asked Questions – FAQ on Modhera Sun Temple

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P.S.- This article, Modhera Surya Temple belongs to Le Monde, the Poetic Travels, an Indian Travel Blog, published by the traveling couple, Nisha & Vasudevan. Reproduction without explicit permission is prohibited. If you are viewing this on another website other than the RSS feed reader or www.lemonicks.com itself, then that website is guilty of stealing our content. Kindly do us a favour by letting us know via Contact Us. Thank you.

This article was originally published here on 2-Dec-2021